Breton stripe: over a century in style

In 1917, Coco Chanel first introduced the Breton-striped shirt as part of casual style, launching the remarkable transformation of sailors' workwear into a staple of the modern wardrobe 

Of course, it was not only Coco Chanel who helped turn the fisherman’s and sailor’s shirt into a symbol of free, "effortless" French style. A lot of other celebrities – film stars, musicians, designers and even royals – played their part as well. 

One of the earliest film appearances of the Breton stripe can be traced back to the Hollywood movie The Wild One (1953), starring Marlon Brando and "tough guy" Lee Marvin. The latter played a biker gang leader sporting a striped sweater and a leather jacket. Following him, the blue-and-white striped polo was popularized by another handsome American rebel, James Dean. 

Such style icons as Audrey Hepburn, Marilyn Monroe and Brigitte Bardot have served as inspiration for several generations of women around the world, as they demonstrated how elegant and alluring striped turtlenecks, T-shirts, shirts and swimsuits can look. 

In the late 1970s and throughout the 1980s, Jean-Paul Gaultier brought the Breton stripe to the runway as an element of evening wear. He made it his signature motif, applying it onto a wide variety of fabrics, corsets, tights and even perfume bottles. 

Thanks to Nirvana frontman, Kurt Cobain, in the 1990s stripes made their mark on the then-popular grunge style and then transitioned into the new century, demonstrating true wonders of combinability and customisation. 

In the 2025/26 collections, moving beyond coastal nostalgia and "quiet luxury" vibe, this originally nautical motif evolved into something even bolder and more intellectual. For instance, pairing a wide-striped coat or jacket with a narrow-striped shirt is no longer considered "overdoing it". According to modern designers, when proportions are balanced correctly, such combinations create a new visual rhythm. One thing is certain: we have yet to see countless variations of this nautical-stripe rhythm, spanning everything from casual wear to haute couture. 

The trendy New York brand Proenza Schouler offers thinner stripes variations and unusual color combinations like camel and navy or burgundy and ivory. 

American fashion designer Christopher John Rogers, who dresses Rihanna and Michelle Obama, has been experimenting with contrasting stripes for a few seasons now, and clearly won't be stopping anytime soon. 

The 2026 collections from Missoni, Loewe, and, of course, Chanel, also feature horizontal stripes in a wide variety of colors and combinations.